May 24 - 27, 2019 (4D3N): When I first saw Evita in 1996, I knew I had to visit Buenos Aires (BA) one day! The cosmopolitan city is even more beautiful in person. Flights from NYC to EZE are all red eyes (~10 hrs), so you can save time by flying at night. As such, we visited BA plus Colonia in Uruguay during a 4-day long weekend. During our trip, we met the friendliest people - from my neighbor on the plane Ariel, then our tour guide Simon, to the bartender Petra, and finally a couple we have befriended (Daniel & Emilio). Since 2019, I have returned to BA twice (December 2023 and November 2024). With an all-time low exchange rate, make Buenos Aires your next destination!

*Highly Recommended for food & drinks

Day 1

• Morning arrival at EZE from NYC

• Airport Transfer (see options below) to Palo Santo Hotel or Four Seasons Buenos Aires

• Palermo Soho:

  • Lunch @ Chori* (best chorizo sandwich) or Pony Line* (amazing burger)

  • Café near Plaza Armenia

• 2:15-4:15 pm: Buenos Aires City Center Walking Tour: History and Stories (with tour guide Simon)

  • Plaza del Congreso

  • Palacio Barolo

  • Avenida 9 De Julio

  • Plaza de Mayo

  • Casa Rosada

  • Catedral Metropolitana

  • Calle Florida

  • Obelisco de Buenos Aires (BA Sign)

• Viewpoint @ Galeria Guemes (AR$100; 3-5:40pm)

• Grab a slice of pizza @ Guerrin*

• Check out the ceiling at Galerias Pacifico

• Basilica del Santisimo Sacramento

• Asado tasting @ Fogon* or Parrilla Don Julio* (free sparkling wine while you wait)

• Wine @ Aldo’s Restoran & Vinoteca* (ask for Petra and try the Argentinian Old Fashion, Liberidate Sour & Collovati torrents)

Day 2

• Take the subte to San Telmo

  • Coffee @ Plaza Dorrego

  • Get alfajores @ Havana

  • Check out the hanging umbrellas @ Solar del French

  • Noon: National Historical Museum (AR$50; English tour Friday, Saturday, and Sunday at noon)

• La Boca:

  • Walk the Caminito

  • Walk around Usina del Arte while waiting for the table at El Obrero

  • Lunch @ El Obrero (traditional bodega style; closed on Sunday; very long wait)

  • Cuartel de Bomberos Voluntarios de la Boca

• Puerto Madero:

  • Fuente de Las Nereidas

  • Paseo de la Gloria (look for the missing Messi statue)

  • Walk across the Women’s Bridge

  • Fragata ARA Sarmiento (AR$50; 10am-7pm)

• 8-midnight: Tango dinner & show @ Esquina Homero Manzi* ($50; pick up between 8-8:30pm)

• Wine & cheese @ Anchoita Cava*

• Drinks @ Oh No! Lulu* & Festival

Day 3

• Uber to Tigre (~AR$20,000):

  • Tourism Information

  • 1 hr Delta boat ride to Kanoo via Sturia Viajes (AR$18,000):

    • Visit 5 different rivers

    • Lunch @ Kanoo (not included)

  • Puerto de Frutos

  • Coffee @ Havanna

• Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (free on Sunday & Wed after 6:45pm, or AR$200, closed on Monday)

• 18-course tasting menu @ Aramburu Relais & Châteaux*

• Drinks @ Victoria Brown Bar* & Tres Monos

Day 4

• El Ateneo Grand Splendid (bookstore in the former opera house)

• 11:15 am -1:30 pm: Walking Tour Retiro and Recoleta: History and Stories

  • Plaza San Martin

  • Torre Kavanagh

  • Monumento Malvinas

  • Basilica del Santisimo Sacramento

  • Plaza Libertad

  • Teatro Colon (take a photo outside or go in for a tour @ 800 pesos or 600 pesos M-S from 9 to 11 am and 3:30 to 5 pm + Sunday all day)

  • Torre Monumental (El Big Ben Buenos Aires)

  • LDudada

  • Templo Libertad y Teatro Cervantes

  • Plaza Lavalle

  • Facultad de derecho

  • Floralis Generica

  • Centro Cultural Recoleta

  • Basilica del Pilar

  • Gomero de Recoleta (200+ years old tree)

• Cementerio de Recoleta (look for Evita’s tomb on Google map)

• Walk down Alvear Avenue to check out beautiful mansions/hotels and shop @ Arandu Talabartería (high-quality leather goods)

• Lunch @ Cerveceria Lopez* or Cilento

• Drinks @ Prado y Neptuno or Floreria Atlantico (speakeasy)

• Evening flight back to NYC (access Amex Centurion Lounge or Priority Pass Lounges at EZE)

Other points of interest & food

• Bosques de Palermo (Parque 3 de Febrero)/ Paseo El Rosedal

• Parque de la Memoria

• Watch opera @ Teatro Colon

• Feria Honduras - Plaza Serrano (flea market; weekend only)

• Steak @ Nuestro Secreto

• Pasta @ La Alacena

• Peron Peron Resto Bar (Eva and Juan Peron bar; closed on Sunday)

• Anchoita

Drinks

• Gran Bar Danzon

• Cochinchina

• Cerveceria Nacional (beer)

• La Puerta Roja

• La Catedral Club (Tango club)

• BrukBar Buenos Aires

• 878

Tips:

• While Uber is legal in BA, it is a bit controversial, so ordering one at EZE could be tricky. I have taken all three options below:

  • Taxi Ezeiza (AR$38,000) in May 2019

  • Private transfer from David @ +54 9 11 6513-1985 via WhatsApp ($65 cash) in December 2023 and November 2024

  • Uber (AR$15,000) in December 2024

• Once you are inside BA or heading to the airport, you are good to take Uber.

• Taking the subte is relatively easy and economical, you can share one card between multiple passengers, minimal refill is 50 pesos and works on the bus. When taking the bus, you must tell the driver where you are going so he can charge you accordingly.

• The tour at the Teatro Colon is quite expensive; consider attending an opera there.

• If you want to join a guided walking tour (free; gratuity is appreciated), please text Simon Chacon @ +54 9 11 6852-6656 via WhatsApp.

• Make sure you visit areas like San Telmo and La Boca during the day!